Welcome to Gilgit Valley Gilgit Baltistan Pakistan !
- Getting There
- Top Things To Do
- Don′t Miss
- Climate & Weather
Gilgit Valley Gilgit Baltistan Pakistan, Gilgit is the capital city of Gilgit-Baltistan, an administrative territory of Pakistan. At an altitude of about 4,900 feet and 365 miles away from Rawalpindi lies the picturesque Gilgit Valley. One of the finest tourist destinations in Pakistan, Gilgit witnesses the flow of tourists year round. This unique little town of Gilgit is blessed with spectacular beauty. The city of Gilgit constitutes a tehsil within Gilgit District. The city’s ancient name was Sargin, later to be known as Gilit, and it is still referred to as Gilit or Sargin-Gilit by local people. In the Burushaski language, it is named Geelt and in Wakhi and Khowar it is called Gilt. The peak tourist season is from May to mid-October nevertheless, tourists keep pouring in all year round. one can see tourists in Gilgit through out the year.
History of Gilgit Valley Gilgit Baltistan Pakistan
Gilgit was an important city on the Silk Road, along which Buddhism was spread from South Asia to the rest of Asia. It is considered as a Buddhism corridor from which many Chinese monks came to Kashmir to learn and preach Buddhism.
Brogpas trace their settlement from Gilgit into the fertile villages of Ladakh through a rich corpus of hymns, songs, and folklore that have been passed down through generations. The Dards and Shinas appear in many of the old Pauranic lists of peoples who lived in the region, with the former also mentioned in Ptolemy’s accounts of the region. Two famous Chinese Buddhist pilgrims, Faxian and Xuanzang, traversed Gilgit according to their accounts.
According to Chinese records, between the 600s and the 700s, the city was governed by a Buddhist dynasty referred to as Little Balur or Lesser Bolü (Chinese: 小勃律). They are believed to be the Patola Sahi dynasty, a devout adherent of early Vajrayana Buddhism. During that time, the region was battled over by the Tang dynasty, Tibetan Empire, and the Abbasid Caliphate. In mid-600s, it was put under Chinese suzerainty after the fall of Western Turkic Khaganate due to Tang military campaigns in the region. In late 600s, the rising Tibetan Empire wrestled control of the region from the Chinese. However, faced with growing power of the Abbasid Empire to the west, the Tibetans had to ally with the Abbassid. The region was battled over by Chinese and Tibetan forces and their respective vassal states until the mid-700s. Chinese record of the region last until late-700s at which Tang’s western military campaign was weakened due to An Lushan Rebellion.
The former rulers had the title of Ra, and there is reason to suppose that they were at one time Hindus, but for the last five centuries and a half they have been Moslems. The names of the Hindu Ras have been lost, with the exception of the last of their number, Shri Buddutt. Tradition relates that he was killed by a Mohammedan adventurer, who married his daughter and founded a new dynasty, since called Trakhàn, from a celebrated Ra named Trakhan, who reigned about the commencement of the fourteenth century. The previous rulers—of whom Shri Buddutt was the last—were called Shahreis.
Gilgit was ruled for centuries by the local Trakhàn Dynasty, which ended about 1810 with the death of Raja Abas, the last Trakhàn Raja. The rulers of Hunza and Nager also claim origin with the Trakhàn dynasty. They claim descent from a heroic Kayani Prince of Persia, Azur Jamshid (also known as Shamsher), who secretly married the daughter of the king Shri Badat. She conspired with him to overthrow her cannibal father. Sri Badat’s faith is theorised as Hindu by some and Buddhist by others. However, considering the region’s Buddhist heritage, with the most recent influence being Islam, the most likely preceding influence of the region is Buddhism. Though the Sanskrit titular Sri and the name Badat could denotes a Hindu origin of this ruler, adherents to Buddhism frequently employed Sankrit in the use of Buddhist texts.
Prince Azur Jamshid succeeded in overthrowing King Badat who was known as the Adam Khor (literally man-eater), often demanding a child a day from his subjects, his demise is still celebrated to this very day by locals in traditional annual celebrations. In the beginning of the new year, where a Juniper procession walks along the river, in memory of chasing the cannibal king Sri Badat away.
Azur Jamshid abdicated after 16 years of rule in favour of his wife Nur Bakht Khatùn until their son and heir Garg, grew of age and assumed the title of Raja and ruled, for 55 years. The dynasty flourished under the name of the Kayani dynasty until 1421 when Raja Torra Khan assumed rulership. He ruled as a memorable king until 1475. He distinguished his family line from his step brother Shah Rais Khan (who fled to the king of Badakshan, and with whose help he gained Chitral from Raja Torra Khan), as the now-known dynastic name of Trakhàn. The descendants of Shah Rais Khan were known as the Ra’issiya Dynasty.
The period of greatest prosperity was probably under the Shin Ras, whose rule seems to have been peaceable and settled. The whole population, from the Ra to the poorest subject lived by agriculture. According to tradition, Shri Buddutt’s rule extended over Chitral, Yassin, Tangir, Darel, Chilas, Gor, Astor, Hunza, Nagar and Haramosh all of which were held by tributary princes of the same family
The area had been a flourishing tract but prosperity was destroyed by warfare over the next fifty years, and by the great flood of 1841 in which the river Indus was blocked by a landslip below the Hatu Pir and the valley was turned into a lake. After the death of Abas, Sulaiman Shah, raja of Yasin, conquered Gilgit. Then, Azad Khan the cheater, Raja of Punial, killed Sulaiman Shah, taking Gilgit; then Tair Shah, Raja of Buroshall (Nagar), took Gilgit and killed Azad Khan. Tair Shah’s son Shah Sakandar inherited, only to be killed by Gohar Aman, Raja of Yasin of the Khushwakhte Dynasty, when he took Gilgit. Then in 1842, Shah Sakandar’s brother, Karim Khan, expelled yasin rulers with the support of a Sikh army from Kashmir. The Sikh general, Nathu Shah, left garrison troops and Karim Khan ruled until Gilgit was ceded to Gulab Singh of Jammu and Kashmir in 1846 by the Treaty of Amritsar, and Dogra troops replaced the Sikh in Gilgit.
Nathu Shah and Karim Khan both transferred their allegiance to Gulab Singh, continuing local administration. When Hunza attacked in 1848, both of them were killed. Gilgit fell to the Hunza and their Yasin and Punial allies, but was soon reconquered by Gulab Singh’s Dogra troops. With the support of Raja Gohar Aman, Gilgit’s inhabitants drove their new rulers out in an uprising in 1852. Raja Gohar Aman then ruled Gilgit until his death in 1860, just before new Dogra forces from Ranbir Singh, son of Gulab Singh, captured the fort and town. In the 1870s Chitral was threatened by Afghans, Maharaja Ranbir Singh was firm in protecting Chitral from Afghans, the Mehtar of Chitral asked for help. In 1876 Chitral accepted the authority of Jammu Clan and in reverse get the protection from the Dogras who have in the past took part in many victories over Afghans during the time of Gulab Singh Dogra.
In 1877, in order to guard against the advance of Russia, the British India Government, acting as the suzerain power of the princely state of Jammu Kashmir, established the Gilgit Agency. The Agency was re-established under control of the British Resident in Jammu and Kashmir. It comprised the Gilgit Wazarat; the State of Hunza and Nagar; the Punial Jagir; the Governorships of Yasin, Kuh-Ghizr and Ishkoman, and Chilas.
The Tajiks of Xinjiang sometimes enslaved the Gilgiti and Kunjuti Hunza.
In 1935, the British India government demanded from the Jammu and Kashmir state to lease them Gilgit town plus most of the Gilgit Agency and the hill-states Hunza, Nagar, Yasin and Ishkoman for 60 years. The Maharaja Hari Singh leases it for Rs. 75,000. The leased region was then treated as part of British India, administered by a Political Agent at Gilgit responsible to Delhi, first through the Resident in Jammu and Kashmir and later a British Agent in Peshawar.
Jammu and Kashmir State no longer kept troops in Gilgit and a mercenary force, the Gilgit Scouts, was recruited with British officers and paid for by Delhi In April 1947, Delhi decided to formally retrocede the leased areas to Hari Singh’s Jammu and Kashmir State as of 15 August 1947. The transfer was to formally take place on 1 August. However, the Gilgit Scouts rebelled against this action, and under the guidance of Major WA ‘Willie’ Brown, ceded to the newly founded state of Pakistan.
First Muslim Governor of the province in British era
Abdullah Sahib was an Arain and belonged to Chimkor Sahib village of Ambala district Punjab, British India. Abdullah Sahib was the first Muslim governor of the Gilgit in British time period and was close associate of Maharaja Partap Singh.
Khan Bahadur Kalay Khan, a Mohammed Zai Pathan, was the Governor of Gilgit Hunza and Kashmir before partition.
Kashmir war of 1947
On 26 October 1947, Maharaja Hari Singh of Jammu and Kashmir, faced with a tribal invasion by Pakistan, signed the Instrument of Accession, joining India. Gilgit’s population did not favour the State’s accession to India. Sensing their discontent, Major William Brown, the Maharaja’s commander of the Gilgit Scouts, mutinied on 1 November 1947, overthrowing the Governor Ghansara Singh. The bloodless coup d’état was planned by Brown to the last detail under the code name `Datta Khel’. A provisional government (Aburi Hakoomat) was established by the Gilgit locals with Raja Shah Rais Khan as the president and Mirza Hassan Khan as the commander-in-chief. However, Major Brown had already telegraphed Khan Abdul Qayyum Khan asking Pakistan to take over. The Pakistani political agent, Khan Mohammad Alam Khan, arrived on 16 November and took over the administration of Gilgit. Historian Yaqiob Khan Bangash concludes that the people of Gilgit, Chilas, Koh Ghizr, Ishkoman, Yasin, Punial, Hunza and Nagar joined Pakistan by their own choice.
Gilgit is just off the Karakoram Highway between Chilas and Karimabad, and most people arrive by road. The journey from Islamabad can take as long as 15 hours.
The best season to visit is from April to mid November. The local dialect is Shina, however, Urdu are also spoken and understood.
Gilgit Airport (IATA: GIL) is small and has 45 minute flights to/ from Islamabad on PIA. Due to extreme weather changes, flight delay or cancellation is a normal occurrence.
Gilgit is not only about beautiful scenic views, but the valley has a number of historic places as well that you can visit. At one point of time in history, Buddhism was the way of life in this region as one come across a number monuments and symbols associated with the life of the Buddha.
• Gilgit Bridge. The bridge over the fast flowing Gilgit River, at the end of its traditional bazaar, is the largest suspension bridge in Asia (182 metres long and 2 metres wide) permitting enough room for one jeep ata time to cross.
• Kargah Buddha (Located on a rock near Kargah Nullah (ravine), 10 km. from Gilgit town). A beautiful rock engraving of Buddha from 7th century A.D.
• Monument of Taj Mughal: A victory monument of Taj Mughal, built 700 years ago, is 30 km. jeep drive from Gilgit town.
• Sher Qilla (38 km. from Gilgit). Trekking route links with Naltar valley. Trout fishing can be enjoyed in Sher Qilla Nullah and a small lake.
• Singal: About 61 km from Gilgit – Trekking route links with Chilas and Kohistan valley.
This area is no doubt a heaven for trackers and hikers.
• Fishing: Fishing permits are issued by the Fisheries Department and you can enjoy the famous Trouts from Icy water of the region- best of the delicacies.
• Flora & Fauna: If you are interested in CHERRY BLOSSOMS then this is the right place to visit. The valley turns into different shades of pinks in spring starting March to April. It can be compared with cheery blossom festive cities of Japan without any doubt. Apart from them this place is abundant in roses, lilies, pansies, willow, pine and fir trees. Trees of apples, apricots, peaches, plums mulberry, walnuts, persimmon and fruits like grapes and pomegranate are seen every where from June to October. Almond trees are a watch to delight – blossoming in white and baby pink shades depending on sweet or bitter almond types to a lush green tree- in October ~ March is indeed a sight to remember.
The area has its rich wild flora and fauna -which is not found in other parts of the country.
• Boating is a possibility in river Gilgit and river Indus. You can try your luck with rafting as well!
• Gliding People visit the area for paragliding. There is a local association for the sport as well.
• Mountain Biking and Cycling. One can enjoy the most exciting and adventurous tracks on the famous Silk Route. Moreover they can enjoy both the history and culture along with Buddhist sites that not many have ever seen before. This route allows you to enter China through Khunjerab. It is the same area which is the reason of spread of Buddhism from India to China and then to Korea and Japan.
Kagah Nalla visit
There are a number of limited accommodation facilities ranging from basic to three star.
Very few restaurants offering locally sourced food.
Gilgit experiences a cold desert climate (Köppen climate classification BWk). Weather conditions for Gilgit are dominated by its geographical location, a valley in a mountainous area, southwest of Karakoram range. The prevalent season of Gilgit is winter, occupying the valley eight to nine months a year.
Gilgit lacks significant rainfall, averaging in 120 to 240 millimetres (4.7 to 9.4 in) annually, as monsoon breaks against the southern range of Himalayas. Irrigation for land cultivation is obtained from the rivers, abundant with melting snow water from higher altitudes.
The summer season is brief and hot. The piercing sunrays may raise the temperature up to 40 °C (104 °F), yet it is always cool in the shade. As a result of this extremity in the weather, landslides and avalanches are frequent in the area.
|Climate data for Gilgit|
|Record high °C (°F)||17.5 (63.5)||22.0 (71.6)||29.4 (84.9)||37.2 (99)||41.5 (106.7)||43.5 (110.3)||46.3 (115.3)||43.8 (110.8)||41.6 (106.9)||36.0 (96.8)||28.0 (82.4)||24.5 (76.1)||46.3 (115.3)|
|Average high °C (°F)||9.6 (49.3)||12.6 (54.7)||18.4 (65.1)||24.2 (75.6)||29.0 (84.2)||34.2 (93.6)||36.2 (97.2)||35.3 (95.5)||31.8 (89.2)||25.6 (78.1)||18.4 (65.1)||11.6 (52.9)||19.4 (66.9)|
|Average low °C (°F)||−2.7 (27.1)||0.4 (32.7)||5.4 (41.7)||9.2 (48.6)||11.8 (53.2)||14.9 (58.8)||18.2 (64.8)||17.5 (63.5)||12.4 (54.3)||6.3 (43.3)||0.4 (32.7)||−2.3 (27.9)||6.2 (43.2)|
|Record low °C (°F)||−10.0 (14)||−8.9 (16)||−3.0 (26.6)||1.1 (34)||3.9 (39)||5.1 (41.2)||10.0 (50)||9.8 (49.6)||3.0 (37.4)||−2.5 (27.5)||−8.5 (16.7)||−11.1 (12)||−11.1 (12)|
|Average rainfall mm (inches)||4.6 (0.181)||6.7 (0.264)||11.8 (0.465)||24.4 (0.961)||25.1 (0.988)||8.9 (0.35)||14.6 (0.575)||14.9 (0.587)||8.1 (0.319)||6.3 (0.248)||2.4 (0.094)||5.1 (0.201)||107.8 (4.244)|
|Average relative humidity (%) (at 17:00 PST)||51.3||34.6||26.7||27.6||26.6||23.7||29.8||36.8||36.7||42.2||49.1||55.0||36.7|