Spantik Karakorum Climbing Expedition Overview
Spantik Karakorum Climbing Expedition or Spangtik expedition takes one to, grassy land literally, is situated in mineral rich, gateway of largest congregation of highest peaks, Shigar valley of Baltistan. closed to the Rakaposhi and Haramosh massif, surrounded by Chogolugma, Kerolugma and Barpu glaciers
.The dramatic approach along the Chogolungma Glacier passes through a variety of beautiful mountain surroundings, far from the regular trekking routes. Straightforward climbing leads to the summit of the mountain where clear weather conditions result in tremendous views in all directions.The northwestern face on the Nagar side with its bright red color of golden pillar is called “Ghenish Chhish”, which in Brushaski (local language) means Golden Mountain. Ghinesh in Broshaski also means Queen. The peak is so majestic and beautiful that the local people call it Queen Mountain. Conway named it as Golden Parri, which means Golden Fairy and some call it Pyramid Mountain too. The peak is located in the Rakaposhi and Haramosh massif near Barpu and Garumbar glaciers. In the past few years this unknown peak became so popular that it now attracts 5 to 10 expeditions each year.
For about three days we will trek on and beside the Chogolungma glacier before we reach Spantik peak base camp at 4,100 meters. Peaks around Spantik are Golden poprash, Haramosh, 7600m, Rakaposhi 7788m, Diran 7266m, Laila 6660m, Sasi Syar, 6048m, Bashkai Peak 7031m. Among the 7000 meters high peaks, Spantik is the most beautiful and fascinating peak. Most recently Spantik 7027 has been a favorite for climbers to training themselves for higher elevation. Lying to the south of the great Hispar glacier and standing above upper Chogolungma, Spantik offers an charming climb.
The approach path to the beautiful campsites along the Chogolungma Glacier offers vistas of mountain scenery with innumerable high peaks. The climb along the Southeast ridge is easily achievable amongst 7000m summits in the Karakorum. The ridge rises 2700m over its 8-km length affording the several safe campsites. It is a straight ascent with a gradient of 30º to 45º with a mixture of some hard and easy patches. The Southwest route also goes along a snow ridge of moderate angularity. The summit on clear days presents grand views of neighboring Rakaposhi, Diran, Malubiting, Ultars, Battura Group, Haramosh, the entire Shimshal Mountains, and K2 far beyond and many more. The scene is absolutely breathtaking. Every year this mountain attracts dozens of adventure lovers from all over the World, from which 80% of them successfully climb this beautiful mountain. As with many high mountains, weather and snow conditions, and climbers’ personal fitness and acclimatization will determine whether the summit is reached. Although not technically difficult, Spantik Peak is a serious undertaking and requires extensive previous alpine or expedition experience.
There are two prominent ridges; South East and North West. South East is a long and demanding snow ridge with few sections of technical difficulty and little objective danger. This route was first climbed on July 5, 1955 by a party led by K. Kramer. The North West (Golden Pillar) is a massive combination of ice and rock.
First unsuccessful attempt to summit Spantik was made in1959 by a British cum Pakistan army expedition, under the leadership of captain HRA, Streathere who explored the small peaks at Chogholungma and keo lugma glacier.
In 1978, Japanese expedition, Hashi to Harashi (Storm & Star) led by Nakamura of The Royal Alpine Club expedition of Japan summitted it for the first time.
The approach route to Base camps starts from Skardu through enchanting Shigar Valley and trek trail head starts from Arindo in Shigar Baltistan. It is an easy climb on ice and snow.
- A technically easy expedition, well suited for beginners and at a mountain of 7000m.
- An outstanding mountain region, home to fascinating people.
- Locally sourced food
- Explore nature in purest form and haggle at local markets for precious and semi precious stones
Arrival in Islamabad
Welcome to Islamabad! You will be greeted by an English-speaking assistant at the airport after immigration and custom. The assistant will escort you to bus for your hotel. We will have ample time for sightseeing and shopping in colorful old bazaars of Rawalpindi and new markets of Islamabad. We may also drive to the modern Faisal Mosque in Islamabad.
fly to Skardu /drive to Chilas
We rise early to be at the airport in time for our flight to Skardu. If the weather is good, we’ll be treated to one of the finest views available in the world of aviation, as we thread our way up the largest congregation of mountains of Karakoram, Hindukush, Himalaya and Indus River gorges, third longest in Asia and one of the deepest in the world. To our east is K2 (2nd highest in the world and Nanga Parbat (killer mountain) and countless peaks and glaciers. It is sometime possible to catch a glimpse of K2 in the distant before our dramatic landing at Skardu. On arrival we are met by our local staff with jeeps and make the short transfer to the hotel. SKARDU is the administrative capital of Baltistan and gateway to the high peaks of Northern Pakistan. We have some time to explore the town and enjoy the hustle and bustle in peak season of tourists here. Sightseeing in Skardu and surrounding areas during the day. For those seeking a good overview of Skardu, or a place from which to photograph the sunset, Kharfocho Fort is an ideal spot. If the flight is unable to operate because of bad weather, we will resort to travel by road on Karakoram Highway (KKH) to Chilas. The drive is compensated by the beautiful scenery along the Karakoram highway and Indus gorges. The journey on the Karakoram Highway is most exciting and thrilling. It is a monument to the engineering feast and one of the most spectacular roads and the world’s highest metalled border crossing. It connects Pakistan and China stretching over a distance of 1300km between Islamabad and Kashgar, winding through three mountain ranges and following the ancient Silk route along the Indus Valley to the Chinese border at Khunjerab Pass. We pass through the historical town of Taxila, beautiful hill station of Abbottabad, quake affected lush green towns of Mansehra, Shinkiari and finally meet the great Indus on Thakot Bridge. From there onward the road snails along the bank of the Indus with contrasting landscape after every two kilometers. We pass through Besham, Dassu, Komila and Shatial to arrive at Chilas with many rock carvings and inscriptions along the way left by Chinese pilgrims and ancient travelers of 5th century A.D. Chilas was on the ancient caravan trail over the Babusar Pass into India. The view after crossing the Rai kot Bridge of Nanga Parbat is without any parallel. Standing at around 1,000 m. you see a mountain which rises to above 8,000 m! This is the largest land escarpment in the world. This is also where the three greatest mountain ranges meet; Himalaya, Hindukush and Karakoram.
Flight 45 Minutes
Drive 10-12 hrs
Activities Cultural exploration , Sightseeing, Hiking,Jeep Safari
skardu free day /drive to skardu
This day may be needed to complete the KKH road journey from Chilas to Skardu. Alternatively, leaving Skardu today will enable us to enjoy an extra day of trekking.
Drive 10-12 hrs.
Activities Cultural exploration , Sightseeing, Hiking,Jeep Safari
Jeep to Arindo
Today we rise early and view the beautiful sunrise against the backdrop of the Karakorm. After breakfast drive to Shigar, a history-soaked medieval town. There is also a heritage Palace cum Fort (Fong khar ). Completely renovated by the AKCSP a few years back, the Palace and its suburbs reflects a medieval look. Here we will pay a brief visit to the Garden House, Royal room, museum handicraft shop and The Khanqah Moalla, famous for its uniquely carved wooden windows and meditation cells. Shigar retains a mystical, medieval aura that may leave you feeling like you have stepped through the looking glass.
Then an exciting jeep journey takes us through the fields of the Shigar Valley via Niali, Gulabpur before the road narrows to a mountain track junction of Basha and Braldu valley, from here we will move left where we will go side by side of Basha river to Arindo. Enroute visit Choutron hot spring and brief break at Gulabpur.
Distance: 96 Km Drive: 07-08 hrs. Altitude: 2770 M
Activities Jeep Safari, Cultural Exploration
Trek to Chogho Brangsa
Today we leave the last inhabited village Arindo. Porters are assembled to carry our luggage for the next section of the journey. For the remaining portion of our journey we rely on our porters who carry our food and equipment and sustain our trek.
After an easy and scenic walk crossing Arindo rivers takes us snout of the Chogo-Lungma and we proceed to traverse the glacier trek continuously up the village. Excellent views of the Rong Kush Kun Peak to the south and numerous peaks and towers of the lower Chogo Lungma range.Our hike will take us along the glacier onto the lateral moraine. Within 5-6 hours, we should reach our first camp on the northern side of the Chogo Lungma Glacier, near the mountain pasture of Chogo Brangsa.
Walk: 05-06 hrs, Grade: Moderate, Altitude: 3324 M
Trek to Bolocho Camp
Resume trek, Today is the most pleasant day of trekking of a moderate trail and panoramic views through out the day. At Khuromal we have excellent towering views of Kapaltang Kun and the snowy pyramid Peaks. One will also be able to see Lila Peak and countless other peaks along the side of the Chogo Lungma Glacier and then cross a side glacier to Bolocho camp site.
Walk: 06-07 hrs, Grade: Moderate, Altitude: 3800 M
Trek to Spantik Base Camp
Resume trek, we’ll step foot onto the giant glacier already in the morning and move across crevasses and piles of rubble. We’ll spend the next hours on the glacier, from where we can enjoy the beautiful view of Spantik and many other photographic scenes. After 5-6 hours and some final exertions on the last steep slope, we can finally set up our base camp on a green shoulder below our ascent route.
Walk: 05-06 hrs, Grade: Moderate, Altitude: 4350 M
Acclimatization 2 Days
First Day in base camp or Organize equipment, short hikes & climbs for acclimatization. Depending well acclimatized my begin our first ‘rotation’ without using all two of these rest days.
Activities Acclimatization / Climbing
Climbing Spantik - 13 days
We will set up three camps and secure short sections of the route with fixed ropes with the help of our porters. We will have plenty of time to climb.
Camp I: 5050m
Camp II: 5450m
Camp III: 6300m
Ascent Route: Our route starts technically easy with a steep ascent through a rocky area near our base camp. We’ll reach the crest of the first plateau, where we will set up camp I (5050m). We’ll follow the ridge up to a short, steep descent to another plateau where we will set up camp II (5450m). We’ll then climb another 200 meters along the ridge, before reaching the steep flanks of Spantik II, which will lead us up to camp III (6300m). Depending on the conditions, we will set up fixed ropes to provide maximum security. After Camp III, the route leads over wide snow fields. We will form roped parties up to the south ridge of the main summit. Along the ridge, we will we can climb to the summit (7027) in technically easy terrain.
Organize Gear for departure - 1 day
Organize gear for departure.
Activities Sorting Gear for departure
Trek back to Chogho Brangsa
Rretrace back steps to Chogho Brangsa,j 3224m.
trek to Arindo
After an early breakfast,we will start early. We’ll take the same way back to Arando, which we should reach in 4-5 hours.
jeep to SKARDU
A jeep journey along narrow mountain roads passing small farming settlements leads back to Skardu (6-7hrs). Upon arrival transfer to hotel.
Drive 07-08 hrs.
fly to Islamabad /Drive to CHILAS
Early in the morning fly to Islamabad,. With clear skies we will be able to board a plane and be back at our hotel in Islamabad in 45 minutes. If the weather is not so favorable and the flight doesn’t come, then we will have to drive the Karakoram Highway to Rawalpindi through the narrow gorge of the Indus River . The outcome is in the lap of the God, so we will be praying that they’re on our side! If we are able to fly down, for those who want to escape the heat of the city a very pleasant excursion is up to the former British hill station at Murree. The faded remnants of the town’s colonial past can be seen in its gable- roofed buildings and small Anglican churchyard. This excursion is not included in the trip price but if any member of the group wish to make this journey, a private vehicle and driver can be hired locally for a very modest sum. Back in Rawalpindi we enjoy a final evening meal usually taken at one of traditional food streets either in Islamabad or in Rawalpindi.
Flight: I hr, Drive: 10 hrs
Drive to Islamabad/Islamabad Sightseeing
Upon arrival transfer to your hotel in Rawalpindi. Evening sightseeing. If unable to fly on day 18 th , this day will be use to travel from Chilas to Islamabad by road. Evening transfer to airport for onward flight.
Drive: 12 hrs
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From early childhood a place somewhere beyond the horizon was where I wanted to be and in the passing years since, I have made it my goal to satisfy that yearning! growing up in Baltistan gave me a great love for that part of the world, from K2 to Nanga Parbat to makin the first venture on Gondogoro la and much in between.
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