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Trango Tower Climbing Expedition

Overview

The Great Trango Tower, well-known rock spire, is one of the jagged granite needles and blocks of Trango Tower along with glimmering Trango Glacier situated in Baltoro region.

Great Trango looks almost un climbable from the Baltoro glacier but a route of only moderate difficulty exists by following an approach gully to Trango’s base, then by following the NW ridge we gain the summit snow plateau and the summit.

At the snout of the Baltoro Glacier the trail divides. We will take the left branch to the BC of Trango Tower. Enroute we will enjoy spectacular views and gigantic mountain panorama including Paiyu Peak (6660m), Uli Biaho Tower, Liligo, Urdukas Peak, Gasherbrum IV, Mitre Peak and etc. The amphitheatre provides an ideal venue to appreciate some of the most inspiring and unique mountain vistas in the world.The east face of Great Trango Tower and Nameless Tower (AKA: “Trango Tower”) are among the largest vertical faces of the world. It wasn’t until 1975 that the area opened for climbing after being closed for many years and Nameless Tower was ascended for the first time by a strong British team on their second attempt in 1976. Not until 1987 did Nameless Tower see its second ascent by a new route by a Yugoslav team. Great Trango Tower’s main summit (6286 m) was first climbed in 1977 by Galen Rowell, John Roskelly, Kim Schmitz, and Dennis Hennek by the easiest route up the western side. Great Trango is rather a large peak with three main summits, all over 6000 meters. In 1984, the 5000 foot Norwegian Buttress was the first route established on the massive East Face, which led to the first ascent of the East Summit (6231 meters). See Appendix A for a complete list of ascents on Great Trango and Trango Towers.

Highlights

  • Locally sourced food
  • Explore nature in purest form and haggle at local markets for precious and semi precious stones

Itinerary

  Days            Activities

  • Arrival in Islamabad

    Welcome to Islamabad! You will be greeted by an English-speaking assistant at the airport after immigration and custom. The assistant will escort you to bus for your hotel. We will have ample time for sightseeing and shopping in colorful old bazaars of Rawalpindi and new markets of Islamabad. We may also drive to the modern Faisal Mosque in Islamabad. 

  • fly to Skardu /drive to Chilas

    We rise early to be at the airport in time for our flight to Skardu. If the weather is good, we’ll be treated to one of the finest views available in the world of aviation, as we thread our way up the largest congregation of mountains of Karakoram, Hindukush, Himalaya and Indus River gorges, third longest in Asia and one of the deepest in the world. To our east is K2 (2nd highest in the world and Nanga Parbat (killer mountain) and countless peaks and glaciers. It is sometime possible to catch a glimpse of K2 in the distant before our dramatic landing at Skardu. On arrival we are met by our local staff with jeeps and make the short transfer to the hotel. SKARDU is the administrative capital of Baltistan and gateway to the high peaks of Northern Pakistan. We have some time to explore the town and enjoy the hustle and bustle in peak season of tourists here. Sightseeing in Skardu and surrounding areas during the day. For those seeking a good overview of Skardu, or a place from which to photograph the sunset, Kharfocho Fort is an ideal spot. If the flight is unable to operate because of bad weather, we will resort to travel by road on Karakoram Highway (KKH) to Chilas. The drive is compensated by the beautiful scenery along the Karakoram highway and Indus gorges. The journey on the Karakoram Highway is most exciting and thrilling. It is a monument to the engineering feast and one of the most spectacular roads and the world’s highest metalled border crossing. It connects Pakistan and China stretching over a distance of 1300km between Islamabad and Kashgar, winding through three mountain ranges and following the ancient Silk route along the Indus Valley to the Chinese border at Khunjerab Pass. We pass through the historical town of Taxila, beautiful hill station of Abbottabad, quake affected lush green towns of Mansehra, Shinkiari and finally meet the great Indus on Thakot Bridge. From there onward the road snails along the bank of the Indus with contrasting landscape after every two kilometers. We pass through Besham, Dassu, Komila and Shatial to arrive at Chilas with many rock carvings and inscriptions along the way left by Chinese pilgrims and ancient travelers of 5th century A.D. Chilas was on the ancient caravan trail over the Babusar Pass into India. The view after crossing the Rai kot Bridge of Nanga Parbat is without any parallel. Standing at around 1,000 m. you see a mountain which rises to above 8,000 m! This is the largest land escarpment in the world. This is also where the three greatest mountain ranges meet; Himalaya, Hindukush and Karakoram.

    Flight    45 Minutes

    Drive    10-12 hrs

    Activities           Cultural exploration , Sightseeing, Hiking,Jeep Safari

  • skardu free day /drive to skardu

    This day may be needed to complete the KKH road journey from Chilas to Skardu. Alternatively, leaving Skardu today will enable us to enjoy an extra day of trekking.

    Drive    10-12 hrs.

    Activities           Cultural exploration , Sightseeing, Hiking,Jeep Safari

  • Jeep to ASKOLE

    Today we rise early and view the beautiful sunrise against the backdrop of the Karakoram. After breakfast drive to Shigar, a history-soaked medieval town. There is also a heritage Palace cum Fort (Fong khar ). Completely renovated by the AKCSP a few years back, the Palace and its suburbs reflects a medieval look. Here we will pay a brief visit to the Garden House, Royal room, museum handicraft shop and The Khanqah Moalla, famous for its uniquely carved wooden windows and meditation cells. Shigar retains a mystical, medieval aura that may leave you feeling like you have stepped through the looking glass.Then an exciting jeep journey takes us through the fields of the Shigar valley before the road narrows to a mountain track leading to the trail head at Askole, the last inhabitancy on our way to the great glaciers. Highest in the region, the stone & timber abodes contain dark & narrow stairwells raven by gloomy, unlit alleys cluster within the embrace of the fertile terraces.

    Distance           135 Km,  Drive: 07-08 hrs. Altitude: 3050 M

    Activities           Jeep Safari, Cultural Exploration

  • Trek to JULA

    Today we leave the last inhabited village Askole. Porters are assembled to carry our luggage for the next section of the journey. For the remaining portion of our journey we rely on our porters who carry our food and equipment and sustain our expedition. After scrambling over a ridge we come across what legend says an old polo field. Passing through a rock gap we cross the Biafo glacier. The Biafo Glacier is a huge river of ice 63 km long which descends from the central peaks of the Karakoram and flows east into the Braldu valley at a point about 10 km east of Askole. After two and a half hour trek a long and uphill walk over a steep ridge along the Dumordo river. descend at Jula, (wire rope bridge supported by a wooden basket) cross it and camp beside a torrent facing the Bakhordas peak.

    Walk     06-07 hrs, Grade: Moderate, Altitude: 3150 M

    Activities           Trekking

  • Trek to PAIU

    Resume trek along the Braldu River to a green oasis under the shadows of Paiu Peak, the last grove of trees before the trail moves onto the glacier, 6611 M. Paiu – is a Balti dialect word that means “SALT”. Since there are some rock salt deposits at the base of this peak, the locals believe that the snow on the summit of Paiu Peak is not snow but a huge deposit of salt which drips down to the base. From this camp we have the first views of the impressive Baltoro Glacier.

    Walk     05-06 hrs, Grade: Moderate, Altitude: 3480 M

    Activities           Trekking

  • Trek to Trango Tower Base camp

    Today we leave Baltoro glacier and turns left on Trango glacier and trek up to base camp below Uli Biaho and Trango Towers. Quite a place with huge granite rock towers reaching thousands of feet high, dropping down to the churning moraine of the Dunge and Trango glaciers. The route is mixed snow/ice climbing at a relatively moderate grade. You can see Trango Tower from both side i.e Dunge glacier and Trango glacier. You can watch Trango Tower’s Donge glacier face also from Urdukas camp site.

    04-05 hrs, Grade: Moderate, Altitude: 4200 M

    Activities           Trekking

  • Acclimatization - Day

    A Day in base camp or Organize equipment, short hikes & climbs for acclimatization. Depending well acclimatized my begin our first ‘rotation’ without using rest day.

     

    Activities          Acclimatization / Climbing

  • Climbing Trango Tower- 15 days

    During this time we establish our route and high camps, and evaluate the weather for our summit rotation.

    Activities           Climbing

  • Trek back to Paiju

    retrace steps back to Paiju camp site.

  • Trek back to Askole

    Trek retrace back steps to Askole.

    Activities           Trekking

  • jeep to SKARDU

    A jeep journey along narrow mountain roads passing small farming settlements leads to Skardu (6-7hrs).  Upon arrival transfer to hotel.

    Drive    07-08 hrs.

  • fly to Islamabad /Drive to CHILAS

    Early in the morning fly to Islamabad,. With clear skies we will be able to board a plane and be back at our hotel in Islamabad in 45 minutes. If the weather is not so favorable and the flight doesn’t come, then we will have to drive the Karakoram Highway to Rawalpindi through the narrow gorge of the Indus River . The outcome is in the lap of the God, so we will be praying that they’re on our side! If we are able to fly down, for those who want to escape the heat of the city a very pleasant excursion is up to the former British hill station at Murree. The faded remnants of the town’s colonial past can be seen in its gable- roofed buildings and small Anglican churchyard. This excursion is not included in the trip price but if any member of the group wish to make this journey, a private vehicle and driver can be hired locally for a very modest sum. Back in Rawalpindi we enjoy a final evening meal usually taken at one of traditional food streets either in Islamabad or in Rawalpindi.

    Flight: I hr, Drive: 10 hrs

  • Drive to Islamabad/Islamabad Sightseeing

    Upon arrival transfer to your hotel in Rawalpindi. Evening sightseeing. If unable to fly on day 18 th , this day will be use to travel from Chilas to Islamabad by road.  Evening transfer to airport for onward flight.

    Drive: 12 hrs

Departures Dates

Months Pack Dates Code Price Status
May  20th
September

Pricing Packs

Basic

bed & Breakfast
$ 000
  • 2-3 Stars Hotels
  • 24/7 Customer Support

Standard

Double bed, Meals, Transfer
$ 000
  • 3-4 Stars Hotels, where available
  • Directed Flight
  • 24/7 Customer Support

Premium

All Inclusive
$ 000
  • 5 Stars Hotels, where is available
  • 24/7 Customer Support

Guides

M Ebran
Travel Guide

From early childhood a place somewhere beyond the horizon was where I wanted to be and in the passing years since, I have made it my goal to satisfy that yearning! growing up in Baltistan gave me a great love for that part of the world, from K2 to Nanga Parbat to makin the first venture on Gondogoro la and much in between.

REVIEWS & BLOGS

Video Overview

Extend your holiday

There are many ways you can extend your holiday with us: book extra hotel nights, take a warm-up/accalamatization trek,relax at a beautiful resort,  arrange a personal sightseeing tour or enjoy specialist activities such as paragliding or a history and culture tour.

We’re happy to suggest ideas, provide quotes and make all the arrangements. We can also assist with flight and hotel upgrades. Just call us on +92 (0) 342 9767 963 or email info@visitpakistanonline.com and we will be glad to help.

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